latkes with kimchi mayo
a recipe for crispy shredded potatoes and how to whip up homemade mayo
Latkes with kimchi mayo
Serve: ~ 10 latkes
Ingredients
Latkes
500g russet potatoes
1 white onion
130g potato starch
2 whole eggs
black pepper
fine and flaky sea salt
canola oil
Kimchi mayo
1 egg yolk
2 teaspoons of lemon juice
2 teaspoons of Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove
100g vegetable oil
100g baechu kimchi + some for serving
Extra note
When choosing potatoes, go for a variety with a high starch content like russets. Their starch helps bind the potato shreds, making them easier to shape and fry. Russets also have low moisture, which means your latkes will turn out crispier.
I recommend mixing in sliced onion. Not only does it boost the flavour, but it also helps slow down oxidation, keeping the potatoes from browning too quickly.
For frying, use an oil with a high smoke point - canola or vegetable oil are both great options!
When it comes to equipment, I suggest using a mandoline with a 3mm blade (check the photo below) to ensure even potato slices, along with a squeeze bottle or measuring jug to hold the oil when making the mayo.
Method
Kimchi mayo
Mayonnaise is an emulsion - a mixture of water and fat, two ingredients that normally don’t combine. The water comes from the egg yolk, mustard and the acid. To create a stable emulsion, you need an emulsifier, which in this case is an egg yolk. It helps bind the fat and water together into a smooth, creamy consistency.
Place a damp, folded kitchen towel under your mixing bowl to keep it steady while you whisk. Then, get your ingredients ready.
In a medium bowl, start with an egg yolk - the key to a stable emulsion, thanks to lecithin. Add 2 teaspoons of Dijon mustard and lemon juice and a drop of cold water. Next, mix in one minced garlic clove and a pinch of salt.
Whisk everything together until fully combined.
Once the ingredients are mixed, begin adding the oil slowly while whisking vigorously. It helps to use a squeeze bottle or a measuring jug for better control. Remember to add oil drop by drop and be careful not to add the oil too quickly. Adding it all at once can cause the mayonnaise to split.
Once the mayo thickens slightly, keep adding the oil in a steady but slow stream.
If your mayonnaise breaks, don’t worry. You can fix it by starting with a fresh egg yolk in a clean bowl and gradually whisking in the split mayonnaise until it comes back together.
If you prefer a thinner consistency, simply whisk in a bit more lemon juice or cold water at the end. Season with salt to taste.
Add the kimchi along with its juices to a food processor and blend until it reaches your preferred texture - I kept mine fairly coarse!
Once blended, stir the kimchi and its juices into the mayonnaise and re-season with salt if needed.
Latkes
Thoroughly scrub the potatoes - there’s no need to peel them.
In a separate bowl, whisk two whole eggs and season generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Slice the white onion and set it aside.
Using a 3mm blade on a mandoline, begin shredding the potatoes over a large bowl. I find this method far better than using a grater - it produces crispier latkes with a better texture.
Take your time and be extra cautious - if you're new to using a mandoline, it's a good idea to use the safety guard. If you find it difficult to shred the entire potato and you're left with about a quarter of it, simply cut the rest into thin julienne strips with a knife.
If you don’t have a mandoline or prefer not to use one, a food processor fitted with a grating attachment is a great alternative.
Continue shredding all of the potatoes.
Line a separate bowl with a cheesecloth, then add the shredded potatoes and sliced onion.
Stir the mix with your hands.
Gather the ends of the cheesecloth and twist it tightly over a bowl to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. At first, you may not see much liquid, but keep twisting - the moisture will start to release. Let the potatoes and onion sit for about five minutes, then give the bundle another firm twist to extract any remaining liquid.
Repeat squeezing until you've removed most of the water.
Let the liquid sit for a few minutes to allow the starch to separate and settle at the bottom. Carefully pour off the water, then add the starch back into the potato and onion mixture and combine.
Add the binders - the two whisked eggs and potato starch, then season the mixture generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Mix everything.
Serving
Pour a generous amount of canola oil into a wide pan - enough so that it will cover about three-quarters of the latke mixture when added. To test if the oil is ready, drop in a small bit of the mixture - if it sizzles right away, you're good to go.
Form the latkes into patties and gently place them into the pan. Be careful not to overcrowd the pan and fry in batches to ensure they crisp up evenly.
If the latkes start to fall apart while frying (you can first test one), twist the mixture tightly again a few times to remove excess moisture, and mix in a bit more potato flour to help bind it together.
Fry each latke for about two minutes on one side, depending on thickness, until golden brown. Flip them carefully using a metal spatula. Keep an eye on the heat - too high and the outsides may burn before the insides cook through. Too low and they may turn out greasy and undercooked.
Once the latkes are golden and crisp, transfer them to a paper towel-lined plate to drain off any excess oil. Arrange them on a serving plate, sprinkle with flaky sea salt, and serve with a side of kimchi mayo.
